The shimmering azure waters of Le Bombarde, Lazzaretto and other beaches beckoned. Sunbathers grabbed cups of juicy watermelon and plates of tomato and mozzarella paninis at informal cafes set on the sands. How tempted I was to settle into a chaise longue for the rest of the afternoon. Instead, I pedaled past these fine stretches of sand toward the Bronze Age ruins ahead — eager to step through a doorway into millenniums long past. I was headed to Nuraghe di Palmavera, a mysterious complex dating to 1500 B.C. and one of thousands found on this island. The placid, wild side of Sardinia I encountered along the west and...
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